By David Krogh
The past two years of the COVID-19 era has seen many restaurants and eateries close shop. But such has always been an ongoing occurrence, even without the challenges of a pandemic. In her book Lost Restaurants of Portland, Oregon, author Theresa Griffin Kennedy leads us on a journey to explore 20 different popular restaurants that began and ended during several different times in Portland’s history.
The author is a Portlander who, along with her author husband Don DuPay, have previously published via their Indie publishing company, Oregon Greystone Press. In this book, Kennedy’s focus was primarily on popular closed restaurants (which include several that she and her husband have visited).
The focus also includes restaurants with substantial history available. Several people had contacted the author during her book writing suggesting their favorite restaurants be included. But she said, “It takes source materials and if they don’t exist, you can write nothing about said favorite restaurant. You have to stick to the facts and what can be confirmed and corroborated by others.”
The Lotus Cardroom and Cafe, Sambo’s Restaurant, The River Queen, Der Rheinlander, Old Wives’ Tales and Cafe Lena probably had the most history available, making their stories especially unique. The author spent over three years researching the restaurants and interviewing many of the operators and others with knowledge of these places. This research includes interesting stories along with several recipes of popular food items, including Hungarian Mushroom Soup from Old Wives’ Tales, Horst Mager’s Lentil Soup from Der Rheinlander and Henry Thiele’s German Pancake (the Dutch Baby).
To give a taste of what the book describes (not necessarily related to cooking), Der Rheinlander, formerly at NE 50th Ave. and Sandy Blvd., besides its popularity for birthdays and special events, was also frequented by many celebrities and local elected officials. At one time, Der Rheinlander allegedly purchased and served “black market” lobster until receiving a warning from City Police.
The owner, Horst Mager, was a celebrity in his own right, having had his own cooking program and cookbooks published. Der Rheinlander operated 1963-2016 before being closed and the building razed and replaced with a new Portland Clinic building. The adjacent Gustav’s was also demolished, but had branch locations operating outside of Portland until finally closing in July of this year. According to the Guten Foods website, owner of Gustav’s, only their Vancouver (Gustav’s) and Keizer (Bargarten) locations are still operating.
Holly Hart, an attorney and the owner of Old Wives’ Tales, was a leading advocate for women’s rights and the LGBTQ movement in the Portland area. Old Wives’ Tales, formerly at 1300 E Burnside St.) besides being family friendly and serving healthful meals was also a refuge for feminists, gays, lesbians and anyone else who just wanted a relaxed atmosphere and good food. The business operated 1980-2014 before it closed, the site being re-developed into an apartment building.
Possibly most interesting of the restaurants portrayed is The Lotus Cardroom and Café, formerly at 932 SW 3rd Ave., which operated 1924-2016. This location started as a hotel, but gradually was entirely occupied by the Lotus. Underground tunnels, bootleg liquor, prostitution, gambling and ghost stories are all part of the Lotus’s history over the years. Gradually the place evolved into a location for dancing, dining and a hangout for city hall workers (who only worked a few blocks away).
The building had substantial local and architectural history according to the author. “Unfortunately, Portland politicians decided against saving the Lotus and it was destroyed so yet another mediocre high-rise hotel could be constructed in its place.”
The author is currently working on a new book to be called The Lost Bars and Taverns of Portland, Oregon. Kennedy hopes to feature 15-20 such locations, all of which have interesting histories to tell. She also collaborated with the late crime history author JD Chandler and may publish at least one of his unfinished works. Writing, in fact, has always been a vocation with Theresa Griffin Kennedy. “I wouldn’t be a writer today if not for my father’s unfailing support. His name was Dorsey Edwin Griffin and he was a writer, poet and author, too.”
Lost Restaurants of Portland, Oregon is available from the publisher at and local sellers like Powell’s and Music Millennium.
Im looking for information about the name of a restaurant opened in the 1970’s located at 1239 SW Broadway. Now Higgins. I think the original name was Abernathy’s then Ainsworth’s. Can you tell me a good source to find out who owned the restaurant before Higgins took over in the mid to late 1990’s
I don’t have any leads for you but perhaps you can contact the author of this book to see if they have any ideas.